Irish Times garden writer and flower farmer Fionnuala Fallon and her husband Richard Johnston established The Irish Flower Farmer in 2015 | This year Killruddery Cut Flowers + The Irish Flower Farmer are officially joining forces and sharing space in our restored Victorian walled garden to supply a wonderful range of seasonal, planet-friendly flowers.
In this important year of our development Fionnuala has agreed to contribute monthly to this blog; you can expect to hear observations on our progress in the garden and helpful tips on growing your own cut-flowers. Excuse us if from time to time we burst at the seams and want to share with you pictures of how we arrange and present these beautiful, sustainably-grown, seasonal blooms!
All images contributed by the same Richard Johnston – Photographer.
Killruddery Cut Flowers – April 2021
At this time of year Killruddery’s wonderful Victorian pithouse starts filling up with thousands of young seedlings sown over the previous weeks. Almost all of these are of choice cut-flower varieties (hardy annual, biennial, half-hardy annual and perennial species) that just aren’t available to buy as young plants from garden centres or nurseries. Or if they are, they’re very expensive, making it prohibitively costly to plant them in the kinds of generous swathes needed to supply our new cut-flower room at Killruddery Farm Shop with the bucket loads of gorgeous, seasonal cut-stems required for bouquets and arrangements. Growing them from seed ourselves is the perfect solution, allowing us to quickly propagate a wealth of lovely, productive, must-have cut-flower varieties, from the oh-so-fashionable strawflower (Helichrysum bracteatum) to dainty annual phlox (Phlox drummondii) on a really large scale and in a way that’s brilliantly cost-effective.
Despite the numerous benefits of raising plants in this way, many gardeners can feel daunted by the whole seed-sowing process. If this rings true for you, then I’m delighted to share some handy tips guaranteed to make it a whole lot easier.
First and foremost is to use a fresh, good-quality seed compost (here at Killruddery we use Klasmann’s organic seed compost, we also stock Westland seed compost at our Farm Shop) while just as important is to use good quality, fresh seed sourced from a reputable supplier.
To ensure good germination and protect those precious baby seedlings from cold spring temperatures, we sow almost all of our cut-flower seed under cover into clean 2-litre plastic pots filled with damp, fresh seed compost, sprinkling a shallow layer of fine-grade vermiculite onto the surface of the compost immediately before sowing. To avoid producing weak, spindly seedlings, we also make sure to space the seed evenly, thinly and to the depth recommended on the packet.
Bear in mind also that while seed of most cut-flower species likes to be covered in a shallow layer of compost and/or vermiculite, some kinds actually need light to germinate so should be surface-sown. Classic examples include foxgloves (Digitalis), snapdragons (Antirrhinum), rudbeckia and nicotiana. Conversely, others need complete darkness- examples include annual phlox (Phlox drummondii) and Chinese forget-me-nots (Cynoglossum) – so we cover these with upturned black plastic pots, while some prefer cooler temperatures (examples include larkspur, delphinium and bupleurum) so we leave these outdoors. If in doubt, a quick google search will do a lot to steer you in the right direction as regards any particular plant’s preferences.
After sowing, every pot is labelled and then covered with an upturned, clear plastic freezer-bag ‘lid’ sealed with an elastic band to provide the sort of conditions ideal for optimum germination. Rather than top-watering, we prefer to bottom-water these pots by placing them up to their waists in a basin of tepid water for a few hours to gently wick up moisture. Then (the exception being any species that need cooler temperatures for germination) we put them on a raised propagation bed in Killruddery’s bright, frost-free pithouse where a simple heated soil cable buried in a layer of sand provides the kind of gentle bottom-heat that really boosts germination rates. But you could equally use a small electric propagator or a bright windowsill indoors.
Depending on the species, germination typically takes anywhere from a few days to several weeks, so we check the pots regularly for obvious signs. Once we see it, we move the pots off the heat and remove the bags to encourage strong, healthy growth. After that, it’s a simple case of growing the seedlings on in a very bright, frost-free spot in Killruddery’s pithouse until they’re ready to individually prick out into cell trays/ modules (available from all good garden centres) , something that we do when they’ve produced their first set of ‘true leaves’. Kept well-watered and given a very diluted liquid seaweed feed every 7-10 days, they’ll be transplanted out into their final positions in the walled garden’s cut-flower border in late May.
Words: Fionnuala Fallon | Photographs: Richard Johnston